Floating the Truckee River July 4th 2011

As Independence day draws near, many people are wondering about floating the Truckee River from Tahoe City to River Ranch.  An event that typically draws a huge crowd, this year will most likely not.  Though the region has received record amount of snow fall, the River is at a very low level.  So low in fact that the commercial rafting companies are not running for the 4th. 

How could this be possible, when floods are reported everywhere?  Floating of the Truckee River is made possible by water released from the "Fanny Bridge" Dam.  Due to all the tributaries that feed into the river, the Truckee River is near or at flood stages in Reno and locations east of Truckee.  Because of this they are not releasing any water (or very little) from the dam.  Well Damn!! 

Does this mean you can't float the river?  No it doesn't.  In fact I think I might float it this Independence Day.  It just means that you will not be able to rent a commercial raft, might have to walk section, and there might be sections of flat water that require some paddling.  In fact, looking at the river's water level this morning, I have floated the river with even less water.  So go out there and enjoy.

Happy Fourth.

Labor Day in Yosemite - Commissioner's Buttress

For those that have not known me since my college days, the screen name "MrPulldown" might be a bit of a enigma. Since it has to do with the web many think that it is associated with a pull down menu. However the term pulldown, has its origins back from the last year of College. At the last house I lived at during my senior year, I lived with a bunch of rock climbing friends. A slang term for climbing was to pulldown. One day needing a screen name, I used Mr Pulldown to describe myself; I have been using that screen name ever since.

So this picture is not one I took from this trip. However I did take it one winter day many years ago. What whould a post about Yosemite be without a picture of the Valley.

Through the following years, climbing was a sport I followed with varying degrees of passion. In the most recent years, I would describe myself as a retired rock climber, though I will still climb a few times each year. This last labor day weekend was one such time.

Through one of the original climbing roommates a large block of campgrounds were reserved, the notice to congregate was sent out, and the jingle of climbing gear once again rang in my ears. This year not only did three of the four original roommates show, along with several of our friends from the same time period, but my wife, brother, father, and son was also part of the adventure. In fact this was the first time my infant son visited the Valley.

So how was Yosemite Valley Labor Day weekend 2010? HOT. When we rolled in Friday the high temp was reported to be 97 degree, with the following three days predicted to be in the mid 90's. The crowds were not much of an issue. Once our vehicles were parked in the campsite, the shuttle fulfilled all of our transportation needs. However I did find a traffic backup traveling East into the Valley right before the 41 split. Though the popular trails were at maximum capacity, the climbing spots were only moderated busy. Our crag day at the Church Bowl did not involve any waiting. I guess climbers tend to stay away from the Valley on such popular weekends.

The real climbing was done on Sunday, when my brother and I roped up to climb Commissioner's Buttress. It is a lesser known 5.9 on Manure Pile Buttress. The climb was recently featured in January 2010's issue of Rock and Ice Magazine, as one of the best unknown climbs of Yosemite. Though the name does not spark instant conversation and the one star rating doesn't get tons of press, the climb is a true Valley classic. First ascent by Galen Rowell and Joe Faint 1969, the route has often been described as "old school". What seems like an awkward fashion term, old school in this case harks to the Golden age of climbing where routes were hard and the men who put them up where even harder. CB is truly a vertical rock adventure. If you have got to the point of pumping out 5.9's in the gym, you are in no shape to lead this climb. From finger locks to off widths this climb takes you through cracks, lie backs, stems, and roofs.

The above picture is not my own. I must give credit to "Trad" from the the SuperTopo Forum .

CB starts to the right of the famous Nut Cracker route on the Manuer Pile Buttress. Stay low on the approach till you pass the large buttress, then head towards the rock. The climb starts at an odd long rock that has partially broken off the main buttress, a pine tree is located right in front of the rock. 100 feet up the main crack is a large pine tree. The first two pitches of the climb are the most notable. The rest of the climb is just to top out and is dirty and lose. The climb tops out above the nutcracker platform. Down climb 3rd/4th class to the main gully trail used for decent. The option of bailing to the right after the first two pitches is possible.

A topo of the route can be found the Reid Falcon Valley Free Climb Guide. Unfortunatly i could not find the topo in the Supertopo's Valley Guide.

So the next time you get a chance head out to the Valley and enjoy the good tidings the mountains bring, and don't forget to pulldown!

Autumn Climbing at Lovers Leap

For my brother, life is about two things: surfing and climbing; everything else is work. Six months after moving into my new house he finally came to visit. He had been busy "working", all summer, though he is unemployed. He had recently heard and read about Lover's Leap, as the best climbing in the Tahoe Area, and wanted to go. Though I was not very familiar with the area, I had climbed there once before. Luck would have it that the weekend this Southern California boy decided to visit, was the first real weekend of fall, complete with one of the largest October snow storms I have seen.



The small community of Strawberry California is not known for much. Most who know of it, know it as a stop along Highway 50 right before South Lake Tahoe. However a lucky few know it as the home of Lover's Leap. The sign on the side of the highway says Strawberry California population "50". Its most popular attraction is the Strawberry Lodge and Strawberry Market. Located in Eldorado County, this Strawberry should not be confused with the two other communities of the same name which are also located in California; one in Marin and the other in Tuolumne county.


Many years ago my then to be wife and I spent a romantic new years eve night at the lodge. A harrowing introduction to cross country skiing was experienced the next morning. Off in the distance I could see a massive looming rock formation behind the lodge: Lover's Leap. When I returned home I started researching climbing the rock. Scanning the SuperTopo website, a 5 star 5.7 route appeared: Corrugation Corner. Perfect cause I only lead 5.7 trad. The more I read the more I was excited. Sentences like this, "this is one of the steepest climbs in this guide and one of the steepest granite 5.7’s you will find anywhere. Instead of following the main corner, the route often pushed you out on a horrendously exposed arête..." made me want to do this climb even more. What finally sealed the deal was the free topo provided by SuperTopo. Thanks again Chris!!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbingareas/loversleap.html#geninfo

http://www.supertopo.com/rock_climbing/Lake_Tahoe_Lover

This last Sunday conditions were quite different than the time I did it about six years ago. We had waken early and was on the road by eight. It had been storming the day and night before but only a light dusting fell at my house. Even though LL is considered Tahoe, the drive there took over an hour and a half; it's a big lake! Halfway around the lake we went from fall to winter, as the landscape was covered with 2 inches of snow. When we arrived at LL the winter landscape was still present. We racked gear at the car while answering question to many onlookers shocked that we were climbing in this weather. We even got a "better not" remark from a well bundled up lady. I parked the car in the "day use" area and paid the self pay fee. I was glad to pay the fee, anything to help out our state parks, and it was good karma for a day such as this. All set we shouldered our packs and were off tromping through 2+ inches of fresh snow.

As we climbed out of the camp ground and onto the old Pony Express trail, an open view of LL great ed us. It is the largest granite "rock" I have seen outside of Yosemite. Sure there were granite mountains which are larger, ie Tahquitz, however that is not one single bubbling mass of quartz, feldspar, and mica. The corner which Corrugation Corner laid upon is instantly apparent. I don't know if it was the dusting of snow, the dark wet face, or the cold that gave the rock its menacing look. I shuddered thinking of being on the middle of that rock clawing and scraping my way up, then patted myself on the back, knowing that I had successfully climbed the route in the past.

Soon after monk boulder and the cut tree across the trail we turned right onto a climber's trail at the center of the lower buttress. We made our way up and to the right. To our delight we found a two pitch over hung section of rock call Dear John Buttress. The second pitch was ridiculous, however on the first we found a nice 5.9 and a high grade 5.10. My brother lead the nine and we top roped the ten. With frozen finger tips we packed up and moved on to do some more exploring. Though it never seemed like we were on trail we soon found ourselves a top the ramp which lead to C Corner. The falling snow from the night before did not stick to the rock face. Instead it cascaded down until it settled on the ledge. I remembered the ledge being wider when it wasn't covered with frozen water.

Being atop the ramp, brought me back to the first time I stood at that spot looking at the rock wall ahead of me. It was many years ago and I was in my climbing prime. Back in those days I lived the sport. I preferred the title rock climber over engineer, outdoors man, even Mister. With My Wife To Be, we had climbed in most of California's popular climbing area's. We'd hit the climbing gyms on the weekdays and travel to find rock on the weekends. Scrambling across the then dry ledge, it was little more than careful walking. I think it was fall and though there were several obviously climber's cars in the once free parking area, none were to be found on our corner. The base of the climb has a open area, and without exchanging words MWTB flaked out the rope as I finished racking gear onto my harness. I tied into the rope and did a quick check of each others gear, and stepped off the dirt onto the rock.

It is moments like this that I love the most about climbing. The clarity it brings. The mix of fear, and excitement, allows me to push away all thoughts and concentrate on the task at hand. The first pitch went by smoothly. On the second pitch the exposure was intense and I made a belay anchor on a "whales belly", a large smooth sloping ledge. As MWTB came into view I could tell she was mentally exhausted. The last piece of protection prior to the belay was a well sunk nut in a tapered slot, my favorite nut: a home made double tapered number "7". With my name stamped on the side it fit every time I drew it. A good attribute of a nut, when at the time of it's creation, way before LL, my rack consisted of three cams and a sparse set of passive pro. In her frustration she could not free my nut and we left it to continue off the climb. The third pitch topped out easily and we had an enjoyable hike off LL and back onto the Pony express trail. That was the last time my wife climbed a multi pitch route with me.

Those quick memories flashed in my mind and passed as I took a step down towards the start of Travelers Buttress one ledge below the main ledge CC was on. The sky had turned angry when we at the base of TB and decided to head down. Someone had been up there that morning and we followed the two tracks back to the PE trail. We returned to the car only to find two climbers racking up in the falling snow. They were about the depart the parking lot and head up to the rock. We told them that Dear John Buttress was dry and wished them luck. We then quickly jumped in the truck, fired up the engine, and cranked the heater.

I know that my days as rock climber are over. Sure I still rock climb many times each year, however I no longer wear that title. I gained what I needed from it: the ability to move over rock confidently, the mental strength to over come my fears, and the clarity needed to concentrate on the task at hand. As my brother and I warmed ourselves with a cup of tea I realized the most important thing that I gained and continue to gain from rock climbing is the time spent with those that I love.

Floating the Truckee River

2011 Update

When it comes to leisure summer time activities in Tahoe, nothing is more popular than floating the Truckee. This is one activity that crosses all boundaries of race, age, wealth, as well as physically shape and partying ability. I have seen one year old babies float in their own tube as well as taken my mother down the river.

Floating the Truckee refers to rafting the section of the Truckee River between Fanny Bridge (just north/west of the dam release), and the River Ranch restaurant (just south/east of Alpine Meadows Road). It should not be confused with Rafting the white water section along highway 80 on the way to Reno, nor should it be referred as the Upper Truckee River, a creek found in South Lake Tahoe.

This last Sunday, looking for a relaxing activity, we decided to float the Truckee. Though the weather was a bit chilly, we loaded up coolers and our rafts and headed out.

Equipment-The simplest way to float is to rent a raft from one of the many rafting companies near the junction of Hwy 89 and 28 in Tahoe City and the "Y".

http://www.truckeeriverraft.com/truckee-lake-tahoe-raft-trips

http://www.tahoetruckeerafting.com/

These guys will gladly take your money in exchange for a pro grade raft, and shuttle service. But this is not the true way to experience the river. Most that float the river use rafts of much lower quality. The ideal vessel is a "X"-mart raft with upgraded paddles, inner tubes are also a great choice. I have even seen people on air mattress, and even a pair on a blow up killer whale.

Logistics-since running any river is a one-way thing, a little bit of pre planning is required. During the peak summer months, parking at both the take out and the put in is limited. Traffic going into Tahoe City is also a bear to deal with on these peak weekends. Rather than using two cars. Based on conditions I usually leave a bike at either the put in or the take out. The ideal put in is along the south shore of the river, since the north is dominated by the commercial outfits. The south shore put in can be accesses easily from "64 acres", from Tahoe City, take 89 south over Fanny Bridge, go a few hundred feet and take a right.

Boozing-A float trip would not be a float trip without a little boozing. However this aspect of the float has come under fire in the last few years. Litter, drunk driving, and a non-family atmosphere has almost lead to the ban of alcohol on the river. Last year a no alcohol law was passed for the fourth of July weekend. Though the law was passed, no citations were issued. Also take into consideration that law enforcement often park at the take out looking for the drunk floater to come to shore and stumble to their parked cars to drive away.

The float is approxiamtely five miles long and takes a minimum of 2 hours. The bike ride between the IN and the OUT take 10-15 minutes. A few aventurous soles might attempt the rapids past the take out. Be warned that though the rapids are not very dangerous, class 2ish, the sharp rocks, not found on the upper section of the river, often ripps holes in "X"-mart rafts.

Too warm for Ice

On my way out of town I stopped by Eagle Falls to check out the flows. The upper falls is totally running, as is the lower section of the falls proper. How ever to the right of lower falls is a formed cascaded. Nothing great. Just a smear of snot, as thin a dictionary paper in spots, but still: ICE. Slid my way down to the base of falls and soloed my way back up. Always fun to play with tools.

Wild Ice

So what do local Tahoeits do when it is cold out but there hasn't been new snow for weeks. What else but to go search for Back Country Ice. My experience with ice skating however is much more limited. Other than the hundreds of hours logged watching Olympic ice skating, my only real world ice skating experience is Valentines day at Squaw 2 years ago. I thought that I was doing well and got the hang of it. But if anyone who has skied backcountry will tell you, that SHIT is HARD!! Variable backcountry conditions make you long for the next time you could lay your edges on some corduroy. The same can be said about back country ice.

The section of beach near our work has a large shallow bay. Over the last few weeks, I have been watching it ice over. Today I finally braved the ice. Tough but well worth the effort.