Eurovan's Transmission Woes

It has been called the Achilles heel of the euro van; the 01p 4 speed automatic transmission. Our EuroVan Camper is on its second transmission. The first one failed at approximately 35,000 miles. It was replaced by VW under warranty with a remanufactured unit. So far the transmission is still chugging along, but care must be taken beyond what VW recommends, to insure that the transmission continues to do so.

The typical failure mode of the 01P transmission is due to overheating of the Automatic Transmission Fluid. The EVC comes equipped with a unique ATF cooler. Rather than being a fluid to air heat exchanger, it is a fluid to fluid unit. The cooler uses the engines cooling fluid and primary radiator to provide cooling to the ATF. Though a fluid to fluid cooler is typically more efficient, this particular unit does not provide enough of a temperature drop to prevent the ATF from over heating. The engine's coolant runs at a consistent 190 degree Ferlinghetti, and the small cooler certainly does not remove enough heat. As the AFT is over heated, it breaks down and oxidizes and loses its properties. An article from Go Westy suggest that transmission failures are hit or miss, based on build quality. This might be a contributing factor, but overheating, in my opinion, is still the primary reason. VW recommends the ATF be changed every 40,000 miles, however Go Westy suggest it to be changed every 15,000.

The first time tranny failed it would show signs of it by getting stuck in a low gear, and fail to upshift until the AFT had a chance to cool down. The situation would go like so: Drive the van for a few hours towards the mountains. Begin to climb a long steep grade and the transmission would downshift into 3rd or 2nd gear. At the top of the grade when one would expect the transmission to upshift, it does not, and it stays in whatever gear you climbed the hill in. Pull the van over and attempt to start off from 1st gear. The EV then does not upshift out of 1st gear. Pull over again, and kill the engine. Wait 5 minutes, start the van and drive off like nothing happened. This scenario would happen more and more often, until one day the transmission makes a loud clunk upshifting and EV comes to a lurching halt. Oil pouring out the bottom of the van and smoke bellowing out from underneath. The Death of a Transmission.

This most recent time I took possession of the EVC, I had a similar experience. After 5 hours of driving I make my way up the hill from Bishop to Mammoth. From 4th gear to 3rd gear. Climb the hill, and at the top it would not shift back to 4th. Ohh Shit, this is the start of a 3000 mile trip I have planned with my family, I do not want to worry about an exploding transmission.

I did not have the time or supplies to change out the ATF at the time, but I did start to look into the problem. Based on two separate write ups, Garreett and Baldy's , I knew that I needed some tranny specific parts to do the ATF change, and that I would not be able to get them before I departed for the long leg of my trip. However in my reading, it mentioned that the fluid level of the transmission was very important. I decided that I had to at least check this.

In order to check the fluid level one must first drop the belly pan. Though having a belly pan makes working on the van harder, it is a great item to protect vital engine parts from road debris and damage. The belly pan however is made of light gauge steel and should not be expected to act as a skid plate. Anyways the oil pan itself is not protected by the belly pan. The pan itself is well designed for serviceability. After removing the four 13mm hex head bolts, and the 10mm safety nut, the pan is still held in place by a release clip and and the pivoting hangers. This makes unassisted one man removal and installation easy. Once the pan is off you can see the engine and the transmission. The transmission fluid pan does not have a drain plug. The 5mm allen wrench bolt you see is actually a fluid overflow drain. The allen bolt is attached to a tube inside the oil pan that drains fluid which is excessive to the proper level. (drain picture not mine) The proper level is also dependant on three key points. One-the vehicle should be parked on a level surface. Two- the engine needs to be running, and Three-the AFT should be at the proper temperature.

Leveling the van is a bit tricky. Since the van sits with the nose lower than the tail, even if the van is parked on a level surface the floor is not level. Is this considered level? I used a four foot level that I set on the floor o the van, and based the level on that. However I do not think that it is super critical to get the the van perfectly level; close enough is good enough.

It doesn't seems logical that the ATF level requires the engine to be running when checking the fluid level. After all any other fluid: engine oil, coolant, manual transmission fluid, is all checked with the engine stopped. However checking the ATF when the engine is running is standard operating procedure. The torque converter and pumps needs the engine to be spinning in order to be filled and thus yeilding the proper fill amount.

The proper fluid temperature is the third key point when checking the fluid level. According to Baldy's write up, the AFT should be 130 degrees F. This is not the steady state operating temperature of the ATF. Per the factory service manual, the vehicle should be attached to a VW computer scan tool to read the temperature. However most shop mechanics just wait till the transmission pan is warm to the the touch.

Paying attention to these three key points I check the level of the ATF, and guess what: the fluid level is almost a pint overfilled. Draining this extra fluid seemed to make the transmission run smoother, however over heating symptoms would still persist on our long journey. When I returned home, I purchased the supplies required for the ATF change: fluid, filter, gasket, locking cap. I decided to go with VW approved Pentosin however I think any synthetic Dex II III, ATF would have been fine. The filter is a must, the gasket I am not sure. I think one can reuse the old gasket. And my filler was missing the red locking cap.

I will not go into detail of the actual fluid change since it is covered in great detail by the two previously linked write ups. I will, just touch up on a few finer points. The first is a series of pictures of the ATF. From top to bottom, this first picture is old AFT with 25,000 miles on it. The second brand new fluid. And the third overflow fluid, which is new fluid that has been mixed with old. You can barely tell that it is "cleaner".

The filler lock cap is released by pushing a pin into the release hole. The filler cap is simply pressed into place, with resistance provided by two o-rings. There is not mechanism to release in order to remove the cap. Just use force, however do not tweak the filler tube.

An finally how to fill the transmission with fresh fluid. The write ups will have you either buying a long tube so that you can fill from the engine bay, or buy the special filler neck with the spout. If you have beeb up to speed on your "Bill in Tahoe" readings you will know that there is a much better gear oil pump .

VW Eurovan Camper- The drive

Several months ago you might have remembered a post about me trying to sell the families 2002 VW Eurovan Camper. We got as far as finding a buyer, and was about to make the deal. However my entire family fell into a depression when the idea of not having the mini camper was soon to become a reality. So the day before the deal was to happen, I pulled it from the table. Sucks, but my fathers happiness was more important. My dad did take the potential buyer out to lunch to apologize, and they are current still in contact with each other and friends. The potential buyer soon became an owner of a VW Eurovan Camper as well.

I would have titled this post "first drive impressions" but that would not have been accurate since I have driven the camper many many miles already. In fact I lived in it for three months once. Regardless, how a vehicle drives is one of the most important attributes of a review.


Stepping into the Eurovan one immediately gets the feeling they are entering a work van. The built in step, "A" pillar grab bar, upright captain's chair. The swinging motion into the drivers seat is a very big rig like, quite different than the typical ingress to a passenger car. The location of the driver relative to the vehicle is also unique. Though the driver is not perched directly above the front left tire, one is placed just behind. In fact the hump of the wheel well acts as a dead pedal of sorts. This however follows the VW bus lineage, where due to the rear engine configuration placed the driver right in the very front of the van. In fact drivers of older VW buses found them selves seated in front of the front wheels.



The controls are laid out in a very simple utilitarian fashion. The dash board follows the contours of the windshield without extra protrusions for ergo, or that fighter jet cockpit feel. Many of the knobs, buttons, and instrumentation are standard VW parts shared with Jettas and Passats of the same era. There is nothing wrong with this at all. Why make different defrost buttons for each car when one will do. Though basic, if seen from a old school VW buser's eye, the dashboard and instrumentation has a very modern feel. One of the first things to catch my attention is the aftermarket Sony Explode CD stereo, and the blank button pop outs. I hate blank pop outs. It makes you feel like you are missing out on some great factory gizmo. The stereo is basic with no aux in, ipod connection, or MP3 format disk capability, after all this is 2002. The stereo does have good sound, and higher than average output (52 watts x4). The flip down face of the Explode unit however is less than desirable.


Adjusting the mirrors, you might or might not notice that the two rear view mirrors are different sizes and shapes. The driver side is rectangular and wide, the passenger's is taller. It took me a little bit to realize they were different and even longer to understand why. My guess for the asymmetric mirrors are because the blind spot on the driver side is larger. This is due to the fact that sitting on the left side of the vehicle allows for a greater field of view to the right. This blind spot is made worse when the EV is a camper. When the basic EV is configured to be a camper, the rear driver side window is not cutout and thus lacking windows to look through. Once properly situated the three rear views mirrors provide a great rear field of view, giving the driver the feeling that they are commanding a much smaller vehicle than the EV actually is. With the headrest of the rear bench seat removed there are no blind spots even with the entire rear passenger side of the van paneled out.




Starting the EV with the silly key fob is more difficult than it should be. The body of the fob does not provide a good grip to deliver the twisting motion needed. When you finally get the key turned, the engine winds to life with a very "German" wirl. The gear selector and the e-brake are located on the floor to the right. The gear selector requires the driver to hold the brake pedal down and the depress a release button to shift out of drive; this is pretty normal. What is not normal is the need to push the release button to go from R to N and from N to drive. What is even worse is shifting from D to 3. The fact that you must push the button is not bad, it is that you DO NOT need to push the button to go from 3 to 2. Downshifting from D to 3 should be done carefully. It is very easy to overshoot 3 and go to 2, while downshifting. This could cause to engine and transmission to rev at extremely unsafe RPMs.






Starting in 2001 VW EV's were equipped with a 2.8 liter, 201 horse power, 24 valve V6- the VR6. The VR6 is interseting in the fact that the two rows of cylinders are offset by only 15 degrees instead of the typical 45 degree offset. This gives this particular V6 engine a very narrow block like an in-line type motor, easily suited for many front wheel drive applications. The 24 valve VR6 is the most powerful engine every installed in a VW van from the factory, and you can tell. Stomping on the gas from a stop the EV accelerates at a rate one would not expect from a VW van. Even though the van weighs approximately 5000lbs, the low gearing optimizes the 201 hp. The low gearing is noticed as the 4 speed automatic transmission allows the van to humm along at 65mph while spinning the engine at 3000 RPM's.



The car feel of the EV is apparent even when you drive. It maneuvers easily and is narrow enough that you feel comfortable with it's dimensions. The power steering is heavy for a passenger car, but not so much that it a hindrance. The front suspension has plenty of caster built in that you never get the wandering feeling many large vans have. The major complaint of the drive is that the ride is woefully soft. Not only is the suspension soft, but the chassis lacks rigidity. A soft ride is expected since this is a camper van and not a sports car, but the EVC drives like a cooked noodle. Soft shocks and small sway bar gives the van a very sailboat like roll in corners. The large hole cut in the roof for the pop top does not help the overall rigidity, as the van groans and creeks over driveway cutouts. The car like feel of the van is lost when subjected to winding roads or off pavement conditions.


VW did the the EV van right by matching the powerful motor with equally powerful brakes. The 12" disk brakes have never felt inadequate. Fuel efficiency is good for a vehicle of its size. 20mpg can easily be obtained when road tripping, and 16 mpg is returned if you do alot of hotrodding. Not going into camper features, two other functions are good and worth mentioning. The front windows have both one touch up and down features for both driver and passenger side windows. Most of today's cars still don't have the dual one touches on both windows. The rear defrost is also unique. At the base where the windshield wipers sit there are some extra passes of the defrost element. This is to prevent snow and ice build up below the wiper, and to help prevent it from freezing to the rear windshield.


The first time I had interest in VW campers was in the early 80's when my dad and I went to a VW showroom. Many years later my father bought one, and once I am taking possession of to use for a road trip. I have a few days between driving it to my house and departing for a trip. Those few days were busily spent prepping the camper for my adventure with it.

2002, VW Eurovan Camper, $38,000

Update: After weeks of listing and many potential buyers, we took the camper off the market. We found that it was just too dear to us to get rid of. Sorry to the buyer that we pulled deal out from. And FYI $38,000 was a deal. Serious buyers that have been search for a camper like this were glad to pay that or more. Looks like there will be many more eurovan trips in the future.

Have you always wanted a VW pop top van, but didn’t want to deal with a slow hippie death box? Then this van is what you have been looking for. Modern styling, engine, and dual air bags. The VR6 motor pumps out 201 horse power, while getting 22 mpg on the highway. Only the 2001 to 2003 (last year) VR6 made 201 hp, the earlier years only made 150hp. This has been a great family van. However it rarely gets used anymore and I feel that it would be better if used by someone for its intended purpose as a camper rather than sitting in the garage. We bought this van new in 2002, and are the original owners. The first week of owning it, we had a set of custom seat covers made for all the seats. Thus the upholstery is in perfect condition. All service has been performed by our local VW dealer, with all service records available. Even oil changes and new tire were done at the dealer. This thing has been garage stored its entire life.

There are so many features on this camper that I have listed them in the chart below. A few of the highlights are: pop top bed, stove, frig, sink, thermostat controlled furnace, propane tank, fresh water storage tank, grey water tank, lower level bed (yes that mean a guest bed room), removable center bench, dual removable tables, new 2nd RV battery.

Things that I personally love about this van: Drives like a car, yet it is a camper. Despite the camper aspect, it is still a van and can haul a ton of gear. You can load several full size sheets of 4x8 plywood in it, though I have never tried. Did I mention it is fast!!

The camper currently lives in Ventura California. Please contact me for any questions or to set up a test drive and viewing.


Automotive Equipment
-In-dash air conditioning (CFC-free)
-Front and rear heating systems
-Power front windows with one-touch-down
-Power door locks (including side door and rear hatch)
-Cruise control with resume
-AM/FM/CD Sony Xplod stereo with six speakers
-Intermittent windshield wipers
-Beverage holders
-Interior lighting, front cab area and side entrance
-Power outside mirrors with electric defrost
-Rear hatch wiper and defroster

Technical Information
-2.8-liter, 6-cylinder VR6 engine
-Peak horsepower: 201 @ 4,500 RPM
-Peak Ft/lb. torque: 190 @ 3,200 RPM
-Towing capacity: max. 4,400 lb. braked trailer
-4-wheel disk anti-lock braking system
-Daytime running lights
-Front-wheel drive
-Fog lights
-Fully independent suspension, front and rear
-4-speed automatic transmission
-Low-speed Traction Control System
-Reinforced floor panels, B and C pillars
-Height-adjustable head restraints for each passenger
-Side impact beams in front doors and sliding door

-Child safety lock for sliding door
-LP gas and carbon monoxide detectors
-Fuel-tank capacity-21.1 gal
-22mpg highway, 17mpg city
-Front-wheel drive with 16" all-season tires
-Power-assisted rack-and-pinion steering
-Fully independent suspension, front and rear
-Power-assisted brakes with load sensor
-Four-speed automatic transmission
-Four-wheel anti-lock braking system

Camping Supplies
-Front seats swivel 360 degrees

-AC/DC/LP gas refrigerator (2 cu. ft.)
-Two-burner LP gas stove with stainless steel splatter shield
-Stainless steel sink and counter top
-2 Dining/utility tables
-Auxiliary deep cycle coach battery (130 amp/hour rating)
-AC-to DC power converter with coach battery charger
-Two 110-volt outlets, two 12-volt outlets
-LED monitor panel for water tanks, LP gas and coach battery
-Fluorescent lights over gallery and lower bed
-Incandescent light for upper bed

-Driver-side tip-out screened window
-Passenger-side sliding screened window
-Room darkening, pleated blinds for side windows

-Privacy curtains for front cab and rear hatch windows
-Tip-out roof vent
-Auxiliary water sprayer at rear hatch
-Marine grade vinyl flooring rear of driver's cab
-Optional 12,000 BTU forced air furnace


Safety Features
-Dual airbags.
-Height-adjustable three-point belts for front seats
-Height-adjustable head restraints for each passenger
-Energy-absorbing steel frame with additional deformation element
-Energy-absorbing steel body panels welded to a steel "safety cage"
-Side impact beams in front doors and sliding side door
-Dual diagonal braking circuits with Load-sensitive Braking System
-High-mounted brake light
-Child safety lock for sliding side door
-Shift Lock III (automatic transmission)
-Safety fuel tank
-LP gas and Carbon Monoxide detectors
-Ground Fault Interrupt (GFI) protection on 110-volt outlets

Storage Tanks
-21.1-gallon gasoline tank
-12-gallon fresh water tank
-8-gallon "gray" water tank
-5.9-gallon LP gas tank

Dimensions Camper
-74"x43"bed for two in the pop-up roof
-Rear bench unfolds in to a second 84"x43" bed
-Length 17'
-Exterior height 6'5"
-Exterior width 6'3"
-Interior height 7' with top up
-Interior width 5'5"
-Curb weight (lbs.) 5,106
-Wheelbase 115"

Storage Areas
-Wardrobe closet with sliding door access-37" tall, 28" wide, 15" deep
-15 cu. ft. of enclosed cabinet space (including wardrobe)
-20 cu. ft. of storage behind and under the rear bench

Seating Comfort
-Two full-swiveling front captain seats with adjustable armrests
-Three-person rear bench
-Two-person center bench that faces forward or rearward
-Driver and passenger door storage pockets
-Netted storage pockets in rear hatch area
-Silverware drawer
-Roof-top luggage carrier with tie-down bars
-Center and rear benches are removable without tools